Chicken Manchow Soup

Manchow soup is the soup that defined the Indian Chinese restaurant experience for a generation. Nobody is entirely sure where it came from -- it's not authentically Chinese and it's not exactly Indian -- but the formula is undeniable: dark, glossy, slightly thickened broth, lots of finely diced vegetables, shredded chicken, a generous hit of soy and vinegar, and the essential crown of crispy fried noodles that soften as you eat. The noodles are not optional.

The high-heat wok technique is what makes restaurant manchow different from the home version. The wok must be screaming hot when the garlic and ginger go in, and everything moves quickly -- 2 minutes for chicken, 2 minutes for vegetables. This flash-cooking preserves the crunch of the vegetables while giving the chicken a slightly golden exterior that adds texture. The cornflour slurry goes in slowly with constant stirring to avoid lumps.

Vinegar is the ingredient many home cooks leave out, and it's the ingredient you notice most when it's missing. It adds a sharpness that cuts through the soy and makes the soup taste like takeaway. Use white vinegar for a clean, neutral sharpness. Serve the fried noodles separately so guests can add their own, and watch them crack through the surface of the soup with the first spoonful.