Sindhi Phulka Bhaji (Mixed Veg Saute)

About this recipe

Phulka bhaji is the everyday Sindhi vegetable — potato, cauliflower and peas sautéed simply with cumin and a little garam masala, the kind of unshowy sabzi that turns up beside dal and phulka most nights. It's not a dish anyone writes home about, but it's the quiet backbone of a Sindhi weeknight plate, the thing that makes the meal feel complete. The vegetables should be kept semi-dry and allowed to brown slightly for flavour, rather than steamed into submission. When the potato edges turn golden and the cauliflower picks up colour, that's when you know it's ready. Simplicity is the whole point. Cumin provides warmth and a faint nuttiness, while turmeric adds colour and earthy bitterness. Red chilli powder brings gentle heat, garam masala adds a background spice note. The tomato is for acid and body, not for making a sauce. Onion is fried first to create a base for the other vegetables to cook into, then set aside to keep from turning to mush. The whole thing should take 15 minutes from start to finish, and the vegetables should still have some resistance when you eat them. The trick is medium-high heat after the vegetables go in. Cover and let them steam in their own juices for the first six minutes, then uncover and let any remaining moisture evaporate while the edges brown. Many home cooks lower the heat and let things simmer gently, which makes everything soft instead of caramelized. The medium-high, covered-then-uncovered approach gives you vegetables that are tender inside and slightly crisped at the edges. Serve phulka bhaji hot with a soft roti or over rice. It doesn't keep as beautifully as curries but will store for a day and reheat adequately. It's at its best fresh from the pan, so make it close to eating time. Completely vegan.