Idli

About this recipe

Idli is the South Indian breakfast steamed cake so light it should barely hold its own shape—feather-light and slightly tangy, meant to be eaten in bites with sambar and chutney as support. Steam does all the work here, turning fermented batter into cakes that are almost ethereal. Slight tanginess from fermentation and the subtle sweetness of the rice define the flavor; simplicity is not a lack of effort but the result of perfect timing and technique. Many people make idli that's dense and dry; the difference between those and perfect idli is always fermentation and steam pressure. The batter itself is where mastery lives. Rice soaked for five hours becomes soft and grinds to a smooth, fine paste without much effort. Urad dal soaked for four hours grinds separately until light and fluffy, almost like foam. The poha—flattened rice—adds subtle sweetness and keeps the idli from becoming dense. Fenugreek seeds add their own gentle perfume. When combined and left to ferment for ten to twelve hours, the batter should double in volume, becoming airy and spongy. This fermentation is non-negotiable; without it, your idli will be a flat, dense cake. The steaming itself demands attention. Grease the idli moulds well or your cakes will stick, and you'll curse as you dig them out. Pour batter to three-quarter full, not more, as fermented batter needs room to rise. Steam for ten to twelve minutes until a toothpick comes out clean; over-steaming makes them rubbery. Rest them in the mould for three minutes before demoulding so they set properly. Eight idlis serve four people—two each—a proper South Indian breakfast with sambar and chutney on the side. Idlis keep for two days in the fridge, wrapped well to stay soft. Reheat them by steaming them wrapped in foil rather than microwaving, which dries them out. The batter keeps for a week in the fridge, fermentation slowing to a halt; you can make fresh idli whenever the mood strikes. Make a big batch on weekends and you have fast breakfasts all week.