Chicken Xacuti (Goan)

Method

1. 1Dry-roast coconut and whole spices till deeply fragrant — go past golden, just shy of burnt.
2. 2Cool, grind with a little water into a fine dark paste, scrape into a bowl.
3. 3Heat oil, brown the onions slowly for 12 minutes, then add ginger-garlic.
4. 4Stir in the xacuti paste, toast 3 minutes till oil weeps out and the kitchen smells of cinnamon and chillies.
5. 5Add chicken, brown quickly 3 minutes, then 2 cups of water, tamarind and salt; cover and gently bubble 30 minutes.
6. 6Uncover to cook down till the masala is hugging the meat; the sauce should be near-black, shiny and complex.